Almost time to leave...

Over coffee and a book today I have been contemplating my trip…

With the rising temps here in Boulder, today being over 85, I might be moving on to Salt Lake City with a return visit to Boulder in mind.  I have a list of boulder problems that may appear as words and numbers to some, but to me are much more.  Having spent hours hiking, analyzing, and attempting these climbs I have quite an emotional attachment to them. I have created this type of attachment to many of the climbs I have done in the past.

The climb that stands out the most is, an outstanding project of mine, the boulder problem I based this entire trip around.  This climb I have put three days of work on, countless reoccurring dreams, and many beta replays in total.  This may seem a little over the top or dramatic, but on the other side of the spectrum, necessary.  There is nothing about this climb I have forgotten about, down to the smallest foot chip, sequence, or body position.  This climb is in Little Cottonwood Canyon just outside of Salt Lake City and called Dominatrix.  

 From the archives

My plan is to get reacquainted with climbing on the granite of LLC and when my fitness is right I plan to hopefully dispatch the climb in a single session, but plans can get a little more complex when they are seen in color opposed to being in black and white.  

Copperhead, LCC 2007

Over the past few days I have been resting and trying to recover from a rolled ankle.  I can walk and everyday it is getting stronger and I am able to walk farther, stretch better and enjoy my day more.  So, my next climbing day will probably be here in boulder at the Movement Climbing Gym, then off to SLC.  Stick around this trips not over yet!

Time to Rest

This week I’ve climbed Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday.  This is the most I’ve physically have exerted myself ever since I can remember.  I haven’t given my skin a chance to heal and my big muscle groups are sore.  So, in light of better climbing days I will be resting until further notice.

Tuesday I went out to the boulders, in RMNP, with Danny, under the impression that I would be taking it easy and not climbing more than to “just loosen up”.  We hike up into Chaos Canyon and Danny takes me to the Green 45 boulder.  At one time this boulder held the states “hardest boulder problem”.  But, I wasn’t after that one.  We crawled through a hole, fished our pads through and behold … Wildcat. 

 Wildcat V12

Wildcat is the best bit of climbing I have done since I have been here.  From the very start it is very involved.  You start with a left heel toe cam, which after a lock off and a bump, you heel hook with your right leg in order to release your left foot.  Then switch your right heel to a toe hook and do a few hand movements and then back to dancing with your feet.  I worked out all of the moves and in less than an hour I began to attempt linking the moves.  I found myself getting pumped after 16 moves, including feet, with only 5 to go and I have fallen here several times.  After getting to tired to make any successful links I worked out the moves on a V10 called Sunspot, and made a few good links.  Remember it was supposed to be a light day of climbing.  Since Wildcat is about an hour and fifteen minutes from the car and Danny not being able to come climbing with me, due to work, for the remainder of my trip I might not get back to it :-(

 Facing Lake Hiayaha on the way to Green 45

Wednesday, feeling tired and sore from waking up at 6am the past mornings to climb and not effectively resting, Danny and I set out.  After warming up Danny tried his project, by the way he sent wildcat on Tuesday, and I waited to warm up.  I was waiting so I could try my other project, Veritas.  I did not send the sit start I did make an ascent of the stand, first try today, which makes my second V9.  I made some painfully close attempts on the sit, falling just over the lip on the last move.  BUMMER!

 Wildflower

Anyway, psyche is high and after my rest I hope to have some skin and ability to tick off some of my projects, the list is growing.  

Danny Post-send!

Thin Tips, Hitchhiking, and Fly Fishing

The past few days in the park the conditions have been spectacular.  Yesterday was the first day I climbed with no sign of rain.  It’s too bad my fingers couldn't keep it together.  My skin is very thin and after a few attempts on Bush Pilot I had to call it quits. 

I have been enjoying time that is not spent climbing as well.  I have done several things that I have never done before.

1.     Ran out of gas

2.     Hitchhiked

3.     Fly fished

4.     Ate guacamole

My friend, an Ann Arbor native, Dave Snyder picked me up to take me fly fishing in Boulder Canyon.  Not far into the canyon Dave tells me his gas gauge broke about a month ago, just as the car sputters to a stop.  Conveniently, a mountain biker returns to his car in the same pull off we managed to stop at.  He kindly offered us a ride into town.  A nice guy, Kevin, a software engineer who works just outside of Boulder and just started climbing a few months ago.

After the fill up we made it to the river and before dark I was able to land two cutthroat trout!

I’m taking a few days off of climbing to allow my skin to grow back. Then, I'm headed back to the park!

Projects in Lower Chaos Canyon

I was able to get up to RMNP Thursday and Friday.  Thursday, Danny and I hiked the approach and knew the weather was going to be an issue.  We tried to wait out the weather, but were thwarted and forced to rest.  Although we had a forced rest day, Danny showed me a different area, Emerald Lake, where I feasted my eyes on Whispers of Wisdom.  Whispers climbs a powerful overhang to a 20-foot slab section.  Definitely a classic line!  After climbing, we headed back to Boulder to see the premier of the Reel Rock Film Tour, which got me pretty psyched for the following day!

Lake Haiyaha - Altitude 10,221'

Friday was a beautiful day with only slight drizzle.  We woke up at 630 and were out at the boulders by 8.  It has been a very long time since I’ve been this psyched about climbing and I was ready to find some projects.  So, after warming up on Tommy’s Arête and a new V7 called Potato Chip we headed to the Centaur Boulder…

Potato Chip V7

The projects begin! 

The first project I started on was the line Danny previously did on Tuesday called Secret Splendor.  After working out the moves, I made a great link from the beginning and my foot popped when I was just about to throw to the lip.  This climb has very small holds and demands a lot of skin.  I was only able to give the climb 8 to 10 attempts before my skin wore thin.

So we moved on…

I walked over to a problem I tried on Tuesday called Bush Pilot.  I worked out a good sequence for the last hard move and the top out, but I could not link it from the start.   I fell 3 times going for the last hard move, where you have a very high left foot and have to swing your right leg toward the next hold for momentum, in order to snag a 3/4 inch pad crimp.

 Bush Pilot V11

After that we hiked down to the parking lot and drove down the road to a problem called Veritas, another problem that I worked out most of the moves.  With such an impressive list of great climbs I’m getting excited to get to work to finishing them off before I head to Utah.

 Danny on European Human Being

RMNP

First off, I would like to thank Tim Gibbs for helping me with some much needed car maintenance!  My drive went off without a hitch (HAHAHA my car doesn’t have a hitch!) Pun intended!!!  Anyway, when I was at Tim’s shop I saw a glimpse of what is to come when I make my way to Kentucky at the end of October…

 Best rest day activity ever?

After the long drive I was really itching to get out climbing and today was the first day that I was able to get a good bit of climbing done.  This morning my friend, Danny Ciavarro and I woke up at 7am and headed out to get a session in at Rocky Mountain National Park.

This place is phenomenal! 

RMNP overwhelmingly beautiful!

After pulling on some jugs to warm up we walked over and hopped on Tommy’s Arête V7.  After a small incident, me unintentionally skipping holds and “climbing like I was on a V12,” according to Danny, I finished the climb second try.  Super fun, and definitely recommended! 

After Tommy’s we headed over to a very stunning climb…

 Deep Puddle Dynamics V9

This is a very impressive feature and uncharacteristic of most climbs in RMNP from what I’ve seen in videos.  This climb is slopey and requires sustained tension in order to stay on the wall.  I tried it and found a left hand gaston with a hard shouldery move guards the upper half of the boulder and that is where I fell.  On my second try it felt very difficult and I did worse than my first attempt.  So, I rested up and before I knew it I was at the top of the climb with a serious body buzz from the altitude.  A very unexpected and pleasant send! 

Danny wanted to try a problem he had been working on called Secret Splendor V12.  As he gave it a few burns, sure enough, third try’s a charm!  Danny managed to send and got me very psyched for my days to come in Chaos Canyon!

I apologize for the quality...

I’ve also got my eye on a few projects already… More to come soon!

About to Walkabout

Today I went into work knowing it will be the last time I will walk through the door as an employee of Detroit Pump and Manufacturing.  They cooked a lunch, brought in a cake, and I even shared beers before the end of the day!  I would like to take this moment and thank them for everything they have provided me with, especially the opportunity to grow as a person.  It’s honestly, just like I started yesterday … 5 years ago!

Magnet-driven, seal-less, friction-less bearings. One of the coolest pumps I've repaired!

Anyway, down to business.  My first stop, I will be staying with an old friend in Colorado.  He lives in Boulder and I’ve decided to focus my efforts in Rocky Mountain National Park.  I have climbed in Colorado before, although, never in the park, and only around Boulder for a day or so.

Trying to stay warm in Flagstaff

I'm hitting the road soon enough!  Saying that I’m psyched is an understatement! 

 All Smiles Over Here!

Genesis

Welcome to my first blog post!

I’ve been living in Saint Clair Shores (SCS), Michigan for a while now, just my whole life.  Michigan is surrounded by water.  If you don’t know, SCS is in the Lower Peninsula on the east side of the state.  I live a stones throw from Lake Saint Clair.  A tiny lake that serves a monumental purpose, it connects all the great lakes together.  I try to enjoy it every chance I get.

 Catching some rays on Nick V's yacht!

Ten years ago I would start something that would be the catalyst for my social networking today…

No not sailing…

My dad's boat 'Bout Time

Not snowmobiling…

 Nollie and her sled

Not jet skiing...

 Fast Fun!

Rock Climbing!

 Infectious at the RRG

This would consume my days, nights, weekends … my entire life.  If you have been wondering, there is not much potential for outdoor climbing on this front.  So, I ate what was on my plate, and climbed at Planet Rock Climbing Gym!  This gym has very tall route walls (55ft) and has extensive potential to set hard boulder problems.  When I was able I would take trips to the Red River Gorge, throughout high school I called the Gorge my home crag.  The past few years, though, climbing trips have been sparse.  So, with change in mind I have decided to celebrate my tenure.

On Friday September 9, 2011 I will work my last day at Detroit Pump and Manufacturing.  I am leaving the dirty industry to embark on a 2 month climbing trip.  I will be driving my Jeep to some of the best bouldering and climbing destinations in the U.S.  Mostly bouldering ;)

I will be updating my blog along the way with photos, stories and everything in between.  So, check back, comment, and give me feedback if your psyched or dislike any subject.