Thank You's!

Driving back down to Kentucky on Friday I got a phone call.  Only a few hours after my interview at Moosejaw they offered me the job!  I start Wednesday.  Which means … sigh … I’m home and ready for work.  I didn’t make it to the Southern portion of the States to boulder, but I will make trips when the time is right. 

Now I would like to thank everyone I stayed with during my travels.  Danny for showing me some crucial beta in RMNP and also helping with finding boulders in SLC mobiley.  Dominique for the psychoanalysis.  Caleb and Steve G for making the waiting out the rain very enjoyable in their plush bachelor pad!  Adam for offering up a bed with such short notice.  The entire Kentucky Crew!  Mark for arranging for the Lakeside Wonder! Wayne and Zach for making cleaning out the refrigerator the last day awesome!  Tim for bringing his guitar, so I could play it and not say M-I-N-E for the entire trip.  Pablo, Lillian and BQ.  Nat Chin and Jason I’ll see you next weekend!  Linden, Dan, and Austin for an everlasting hilarity!  And all the visitors to Lakeside Wonder as well! Matt Macey for lending me a crash pad for 2 months, thanks buddy!  Julia for all the support!  And anyone who I forgot too!

All Smiles, Great Company, Few More Days Left

A lot has happened since my last post.  First, I have found out how much endurance I do not have.  Second, I figured out how to battle through some of the infamous Red River Gorge pump!  My second day climbing, I put some solid effort on a climb I have tried a year ago, called Dirty Smelly Hippy.  The climb weighs in the soft side of 5.13b.  I was able to pull through the higher crux with a solid knee bar, using a borrowed kneepad.  This was my first kneepad experience and a glorious one at that!  A kneepad will be purchased in the future. 

After two days of climbing the crew decided to climb three days on.  With a very early start we made it out to the Solarium in Muir Valley and after hanging the draws on Banshee, 5.11c, I decided a rest day was in order.  I ended up resting two days in a row.   

During our rest day Zach and Nicole competed in a friendly food competition.  The rules were simple both would make a delectable bowl of guacamole and the rest of us were the judges.

 The Competitors

To be fair ... Blind taste test

The right dish was the victor!  Both delicious!

Tuesday, fully rested some climbing was in order, so I rekindled a fire that I once sat very close to.  This “fire” is the climb Convicted.  Convicted and I have quite a history together, which involves me falling at the last bolt of the climb … multiple times … over ten times.  While climbing I found I remembered the moves very well and hung draws quite easily.  Then I proceeded to fall near the top on four attempts.  Earlier in the day I also gave Snooker two runs, both climbs being 5.13a.  With a total of eight pitches during the day, I planned on returning the next day. 

I thought a lot about Convicted at night.  My biggest concern was that I was not reaching the high point I had two or three years ago.  I was really wondering if I had enough fitness to finish the climb. 

After a difficult warm up and an inspiring belay, Pablo sending Snooker first try of the day, I got on Convicted.  Feeling better than Tuesday I cruised past my most recent high point, I locked into place and took a heartbreaking fall off the redpoint crux.  After resting for 30 minutes I tied back in and in a very smooth fashion, I styled the climb.  The most satisfying send this trip!

After our early sends Pablo and I headed over to Drive-By and while I was in a no hands rest I got a phone call.  The call was from Moosejaw and I have an interview on Friday.  Super psyched for the next few days!  Hopefully, after the interview I will be able to return to the RRG on Friday, with Julia, and finish some unfinished business!  :D

Kentucky!

I have made it to Kentucky, my last stop.  I will be on my way home Nov. 6.  In the mean time I have plenty of climbing to do.  Yesterday, the weather was quite poor, so the crew and I decided to grocery shop and hang around the cabin.  A lot of banter was talked, gear was discussed, and many games played.  All in all, I had a mighty fine rest day.

Today, the forecast was promising!  But … the rain came and then snow followed.  We did get some climbing in early today before the weather came.  We climbed at Solar Collector and after climbing Buddha Hole to warm up I onsighted a 12b called Blue Eyed Honky Jesus.  This was a struggle!  I was also rope gunning for the crew and unfortunately did not click with the climb.  I had a hard time climbing the sequences and was clearly fighting and prevailed in the end.  After Blue Eyed Honky Jesus I climbed a route I had climbed years ago, called Supafly and after climbing faster than the speed of pump I repeated this climb in one try. 

I have decided to add a project to my list, Golden Boy.  I climbed it once and figured out a very good sequence.  It is a very sustained climb and will require some serious fitness!  I’m psyched to get to it.  Now I'm going to wait for better temps and less humidity.

Pictures soon!

LCC Full Video

For large videos YouTube is where it's at. Take a look.

Back in Boulder

I made back to Boulder Thursday night and my friend Adam offered me a bed.  I have not made it outside to climb, but I did climb in a competition at the Spot.  It was the second competition in the Spot Bouldering Series called Psychedelia.  The entire comp was black light and very neon.  In qualifiers I climbed well and made it into finals.  I ended up in sixth place after finals and had a good time getting to climb in such a different environment than what I’m use to. 

I’m getting ready to leave for Kentucky soon, but before I leave I am going to try and finish off a couple projects that I have put some effort on in RMNP. 

Here’s a little clip from bouldering in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Final Climbing Days in Utah

I’ve had some really good climbing days lately.  Climbing alone in LCC has its benefits.  With the extra time I have had, instead of traveling from area to area, I have been videoing a lot of the climbs I have been getting on.  I edited a video to share, but it turns out Vimeo only allows 500 MB a week and the video is 1.5 G.  Unless I find a way to share the video without paying $60 to subscribe to Vimeo I might just share little bits of climbing.

Anyway, I have been here in Salt Lake City a week longer than expected.  I have been hoping for some breakthrough on Dominatrix, but it hasn’t come.  I have done a lot of reflecting and when I was here last the weather was much colder, about 20 degrees lower.  I have decided that I am wasting energy throwing myself at this climb.  My left hand has bruised fingertips and it’s a reminder that no matter how hard I grab the hold I will pop off.  I need colder temps and a new psyche.

After deciding that I was going to walk away from Dominatrix for now I focused my energy on getting on some new climbs around town.  I have had a blast working my way around the canyon.  Caleb suggested a few classics for me to get on and in the process I added a few that I really enjoyed to climb as well.  Yesterday, in particular, was a really good climbing day.  I went to the Hidden Forest and climbed a few of it’s best!  I flashed a V7 mantle called Whiskey and if it was in Horse Pens it would probably only be V5, Ha!  In the same area I climb Gerbils and Duct Tape, which at one time were both V9 and Duct Taped was supposedly closer to a 10.  I’m not sure what they are now, but I thought Gerbils was more difficult out of the two, and that Duct Tape was an easy, one move, V8.  Both V8s sounds good to me.  With only an hour of daylight left I drove up canyon to White Pine and got on Citizen Dildo V9, which, if compared to Euro, would only be a V7.  I dispatch CD in only 3 tries and repeated it twice for video.  

 Whiskey

 Gerbils

 Duct Tape

Citizen Dildo

I apologize this post is very to the point, but I have a few things to do before I leave for Colorado tomorrow, the biggest thing being rotating my tires.

Finally some climbing!

Climbing in SLC has been fun, but the weather has not been cooperating.  I haven’t been climbing nearly as much as I planned.  Although, I did make it up to Dominatrix for one session and found that I need more time to finish this one.  That same day, to warm up I went to an area I have never climbed at before.  It was a kind of a rediscovering moment for me.  I got to climb on all new warm ups and higher up the canyon some local guys were hooting and hollering finishing a tall new project.  Needless to say psyche was high and I got to it.  I climbed a problem called Mini Maisch a cool V8, but before I did it, I broke a foot for the last move… Oops… It still goes smoothly, so my conscious is clear.  I also tried Maisch Roof a great V11 that I will have to come back for.  There are so many climbs out here that I have tried or just heard about that I want to try, but I don’t have enough time on this trip.

But mostly the weather has been poor.  I think my Halo skills have far surpassed what they have been in the past! 

 Laying the smack down on Steve!

Since the weather in Salt Lake has been sub-par, Caleb, Steve, and I decided to go down to Joe’s Valley for a day trip.  We left Tuesday morning and climbed a full session.  We went to the Riverside Boulder and hopped on a classic to warm up.  It’s a V2 rail called the Angler.  Such a quality climb, in such a scenic position, it was very aesthetically pleasing.  On the same boulder just to the right Cal and I used our finely crafted Horse Pens style to climb a fun V8 called Feels Like Grit. 

After climbing at the riverside we went to a boulder problem called Worm Turns V11.  I have seen videos, but have never actually seen the climb in person. There are two crux moves on this problem.  The first crux move, after working up the tufa, you change the orientation of your body, by flipping your right hand from the bottom of this tufa to above your left hand.  The second crux move you flip your left hand to an undercling on the tufa, put your left foot on the bottom of the tufa and post your right foot on the wall and huck for a jug.  After putting our pads down and throwing myself at the problem for a few goes I had still not stuck either crux move.  I grabbed on to the start holds and before I knew it I had “turned the worm” did the huck and was laughing while I topped out the climb.  Such a splendid surprise, but at the same time it felt easy, I had unlocked the perfect sequence for me. 

 Cal on Worm Turns

After moving on we climb a fun V7 called G207.  All of us hiked this climb and we made our way to the Eden Boulder.

Steve putting down G207

Cal had been talking about Eden V10 and told a story of how he fell in the crux and took a nasty fall.  With the crux at the top of the boulder, this made me nervous.  This boulder is upwards of fifteen feet tall.  I claimed that I was just going to climb the lower section, feel the holds and drop if necessary.  My ankle is still healing so; I was taking safety precautions to prevent reinjuring it.  My first attempt I missed a key foot out left and fell about half way up the boulder.  Then Caleb took a burn and after I hopped back on the problem with every intention of dropping off before the crux.  But, on my second attempt, I made it to the halfway point, made the move out of the mouth into the first crimp.  I planted my right foot and feeling extremely confident I made the crux move into an incut crimp, grabbed the single pad crimps over the lip and topped the problem out.  I remember feeling strong and confident while climbing and as I stood alone on top of the boulder, I had an ear-to-ear grin indulging in that moment.  I’m glad I’m climbing strong and also still on the road to recovery.  

 Hopefully, I'll get some better pictures soon.  It's looking like I will stay in Salt Lake long enough to try Dominatrix one more time.  I'll be headed east before the weekend.  Wish me luck!

Worst Case Scenario at Joe's Valley

I went climbing at Joe’s Valley today and had a very short, but good session.  I warmed up in what I thought would be a good location, in the sun, because of the chill from the morning, but the temps rose quickly.  So, I left the area I was in, New Joe’s, and headed to the Left Fork.  After thinking about my couple of outstanding projects I have, I remembered that they all are quite tall, which means they have long falls.  I decided to veer from the plan and try something different.  I thought it would be a good idea to get on a problem I had tried once before in passing.  The climb is called Worst Case Scenario.  A fun V9 that climbs really close to the road and the worst-case scenario would be falling into the road ... tumbling ... semis ... no bueno.  Luckily, that didn’t happen and after a handful of attempts I managed to make my way up the climb before the rain came.

I didn’t realize how much skin climbing in Little Cottonwood took from me and on my final attempt on WCS I wore a small hole through my middle finger on my left hand and decided to call it quits … Satisfied!

Worst Case Scenario

Dominatrix in LLC is a short climb with a great landing, so after my skin cells replenish I will get up canyon to give it my all!  I'll be in touch.

LCC Boudering Update

My friends originally from Michigan, Caleb, Steve G, and I went climbing on Saturday in Little Cottonwood Canyon.  I have not forgot the style out here, but I did forget how tough the rock is.  My fingertips are raw after climbing for only three hours!  We climbed at an area called White Pine, which I have never been to before.  This is the first time I’ve climbed in LCC without snow on the ground.  Actually, the temps were high, in the mid-eighties.  This was the first day I tried bouldering since I sprained my ankle on the 21^st of September.  I think it was a success!

I was able to warm up doing a couple moderates then made quick work of a boulder called Stephen’s Problem V7 and after being criticized of my beta being too difficult I repeated the climb using alternate beta just to finish my warm up.   Then we made our way to a climb called Euro V9.  The problems first move is really low percentage and then you climb out of a small roof on some really cool, extended, moderate climbing.  The first time I stuck the crux move I had not tried the top section and botched my beta.  So, I started from the second move and went to the top quite easily using a far heel out left.  The second time I stuck the crux move I cruised to the finish jug and when my feet cut I dabbed on our mini pad, sigh… So, I dropped to finish it off properly.  The third time was a charm and after I stuck the first move I gained my composure and finished the climb off smoothly! 

Here’s a little sequence of shots courtesy of Steve G!

Next I’m headed to Joe’s Valley.  I will be leaving tomorrow morning.  The weather is a little iffy, but it looks like early this week is my window of opportunity.  Let’s hope for no rain!

Arriving in SLC

I climbed at Movement on Tuesday and after sticking to theoverhung walls and ten pitches later, I had a great workout with almost no painat all! I’ve only climbed oncemore since then. I made it outsidehere in SLC at the S-curve crag. Ashort bouldery area with the shortest approach, the latter was key. This crag had a small waterfall,feeding a creek running through the center of the mini-valley. I wasn’t informed what the names of theclimbs were, but they were some fun moderates.

Can you guess which one was hurt?

I’m getting a little ahead of myself. Wednesday morning I set off for SaltLake City. I packed up quickly andwas out of the door by 9:00. As Idrove away, through the hills and wind farms, I was actually sad leavingBoulder. I have so many projectsto finish and I overall had a great time, which just made it even harder for meto leave.

Driving to SLC

Soon I’ll be making my way up the canyon to get to itbouldering. Hopefully, I’m stillfluent in granite climbing and will get my projects done here and move on toJoe’s Valley.

Almost time to leave...

Over coffee and a book today I have been contemplating my trip…

With the rising temps here in Boulder, today being over 85, I might be moving on to Salt Lake City with a return visit to Boulder in mind.  I have a list of boulder problems that may appear as words and numbers to some, but to me are much more.  Having spent hours hiking, analyzing, and attempting these climbs I have quite an emotional attachment to them. I have created this type of attachment to many of the climbs I have done in the past.

The climb that stands out the most is, an outstanding project of mine, the boulder problem I based this entire trip around.  This climb I have put three days of work on, countless reoccurring dreams, and many beta replays in total.  This may seem a little over the top or dramatic, but on the other side of the spectrum, necessary.  There is nothing about this climb I have forgotten about, down to the smallest foot chip, sequence, or body position.  This climb is in Little Cottonwood Canyon just outside of Salt Lake City and called Dominatrix.  

 From the archives

My plan is to get reacquainted with climbing on the granite of LLC and when my fitness is right I plan to hopefully dispatch the climb in a single session, but plans can get a little more complex when they are seen in color opposed to being in black and white.  

Copperhead, LCC 2007

Over the past few days I have been resting and trying to recover from a rolled ankle.  I can walk and everyday it is getting stronger and I am able to walk farther, stretch better and enjoy my day more.  So, my next climbing day will probably be here in boulder at the Movement Climbing Gym, then off to SLC.  Stick around this trips not over yet!

Time to Rest

This week I’ve climbed Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday.  This is the most I’ve physically have exerted myself ever since I can remember.  I haven’t given my skin a chance to heal and my big muscle groups are sore.  So, in light of better climbing days I will be resting until further notice.

Tuesday I went out to the boulders, in RMNP, with Danny, under the impression that I would be taking it easy and not climbing more than to “just loosen up”.  We hike up into Chaos Canyon and Danny takes me to the Green 45 boulder.  At one time this boulder held the states “hardest boulder problem”.  But, I wasn’t after that one.  We crawled through a hole, fished our pads through and behold … Wildcat. 

 Wildcat V12

Wildcat is the best bit of climbing I have done since I have been here.  From the very start it is very involved.  You start with a left heel toe cam, which after a lock off and a bump, you heel hook with your right leg in order to release your left foot.  Then switch your right heel to a toe hook and do a few hand movements and then back to dancing with your feet.  I worked out all of the moves and in less than an hour I began to attempt linking the moves.  I found myself getting pumped after 16 moves, including feet, with only 5 to go and I have fallen here several times.  After getting to tired to make any successful links I worked out the moves on a V10 called Sunspot, and made a few good links.  Remember it was supposed to be a light day of climbing.  Since Wildcat is about an hour and fifteen minutes from the car and Danny not being able to come climbing with me, due to work, for the remainder of my trip I might not get back to it :-(

 Facing Lake Hiayaha on the way to Green 45

Wednesday, feeling tired and sore from waking up at 6am the past mornings to climb and not effectively resting, Danny and I set out.  After warming up Danny tried his project, by the way he sent wildcat on Tuesday, and I waited to warm up.  I was waiting so I could try my other project, Veritas.  I did not send the sit start I did make an ascent of the stand, first try today, which makes my second V9.  I made some painfully close attempts on the sit, falling just over the lip on the last move.  BUMMER!

 Wildflower

Anyway, psyche is high and after my rest I hope to have some skin and ability to tick off some of my projects, the list is growing.  

Danny Post-send!

Thin Tips, Hitchhiking, and Fly Fishing

The past few days in the park the conditions have been spectacular.  Yesterday was the first day I climbed with no sign of rain.  It’s too bad my fingers couldn't keep it together.  My skin is very thin and after a few attempts on Bush Pilot I had to call it quits. 

I have been enjoying time that is not spent climbing as well.  I have done several things that I have never done before.

1.     Ran out of gas

2.     Hitchhiked

3.     Fly fished

4.     Ate guacamole

My friend, an Ann Arbor native, Dave Snyder picked me up to take me fly fishing in Boulder Canyon.  Not far into the canyon Dave tells me his gas gauge broke about a month ago, just as the car sputters to a stop.  Conveniently, a mountain biker returns to his car in the same pull off we managed to stop at.  He kindly offered us a ride into town.  A nice guy, Kevin, a software engineer who works just outside of Boulder and just started climbing a few months ago.

After the fill up we made it to the river and before dark I was able to land two cutthroat trout!

I’m taking a few days off of climbing to allow my skin to grow back. Then, I'm headed back to the park!

Projects in Lower Chaos Canyon

I was able to get up to RMNP Thursday and Friday.  Thursday, Danny and I hiked the approach and knew the weather was going to be an issue.  We tried to wait out the weather, but were thwarted and forced to rest.  Although we had a forced rest day, Danny showed me a different area, Emerald Lake, where I feasted my eyes on Whispers of Wisdom.  Whispers climbs a powerful overhang to a 20-foot slab section.  Definitely a classic line!  After climbing, we headed back to Boulder to see the premier of the Reel Rock Film Tour, which got me pretty psyched for the following day!

Lake Haiyaha - Altitude 10,221'

Friday was a beautiful day with only slight drizzle.  We woke up at 630 and were out at the boulders by 8.  It has been a very long time since I’ve been this psyched about climbing and I was ready to find some projects.  So, after warming up on Tommy’s Arête and a new V7 called Potato Chip we headed to the Centaur Boulder…

Potato Chip V7

The projects begin! 

The first project I started on was the line Danny previously did on Tuesday called Secret Splendor.  After working out the moves, I made a great link from the beginning and my foot popped when I was just about to throw to the lip.  This climb has very small holds and demands a lot of skin.  I was only able to give the climb 8 to 10 attempts before my skin wore thin.

So we moved on…

I walked over to a problem I tried on Tuesday called Bush Pilot.  I worked out a good sequence for the last hard move and the top out, but I could not link it from the start.   I fell 3 times going for the last hard move, where you have a very high left foot and have to swing your right leg toward the next hold for momentum, in order to snag a 3/4 inch pad crimp.

 Bush Pilot V11

After that we hiked down to the parking lot and drove down the road to a problem called Veritas, another problem that I worked out most of the moves.  With such an impressive list of great climbs I’m getting excited to get to work to finishing them off before I head to Utah.

 Danny on European Human Being

RMNP

First off, I would like to thank Tim Gibbs for helping me with some much needed car maintenance!  My drive went off without a hitch (HAHAHA my car doesn’t have a hitch!) Pun intended!!!  Anyway, when I was at Tim’s shop I saw a glimpse of what is to come when I make my way to Kentucky at the end of October…

 Best rest day activity ever?

After the long drive I was really itching to get out climbing and today was the first day that I was able to get a good bit of climbing done.  This morning my friend, Danny Ciavarro and I woke up at 7am and headed out to get a session in at Rocky Mountain National Park.

This place is phenomenal! 

RMNP overwhelmingly beautiful!

After pulling on some jugs to warm up we walked over and hopped on Tommy’s Arête V7.  After a small incident, me unintentionally skipping holds and “climbing like I was on a V12,” according to Danny, I finished the climb second try.  Super fun, and definitely recommended! 

After Tommy’s we headed over to a very stunning climb…

 Deep Puddle Dynamics V9

This is a very impressive feature and uncharacteristic of most climbs in RMNP from what I’ve seen in videos.  This climb is slopey and requires sustained tension in order to stay on the wall.  I tried it and found a left hand gaston with a hard shouldery move guards the upper half of the boulder and that is where I fell.  On my second try it felt very difficult and I did worse than my first attempt.  So, I rested up and before I knew it I was at the top of the climb with a serious body buzz from the altitude.  A very unexpected and pleasant send! 

Danny wanted to try a problem he had been working on called Secret Splendor V12.  As he gave it a few burns, sure enough, third try’s a charm!  Danny managed to send and got me very psyched for my days to come in Chaos Canyon!

I apologize for the quality...

I’ve also got my eye on a few projects already… More to come soon!

About to Walkabout

Today I went into work knowing it will be the last time I will walk through the door as an employee of Detroit Pump and Manufacturing.  They cooked a lunch, brought in a cake, and I even shared beers before the end of the day!  I would like to take this moment and thank them for everything they have provided me with, especially the opportunity to grow as a person.  It’s honestly, just like I started yesterday … 5 years ago!

Magnet-driven, seal-less, friction-less bearings. One of the coolest pumps I've repaired!

Anyway, down to business.  My first stop, I will be staying with an old friend in Colorado.  He lives in Boulder and I’ve decided to focus my efforts in Rocky Mountain National Park.  I have climbed in Colorado before, although, never in the park, and only around Boulder for a day or so.

Trying to stay warm in Flagstaff

I'm hitting the road soon enough!  Saying that I’m psyched is an understatement! 

 All Smiles Over Here!

Genesis

Welcome to my first blog post!

I’ve been living in Saint Clair Shores (SCS), Michigan for a while now, just my whole life.  Michigan is surrounded by water.  If you don’t know, SCS is in the Lower Peninsula on the east side of the state.  I live a stones throw from Lake Saint Clair.  A tiny lake that serves a monumental purpose, it connects all the great lakes together.  I try to enjoy it every chance I get.

 Catching some rays on Nick V's yacht!

Ten years ago I would start something that would be the catalyst for my social networking today…

No not sailing…

My dad's boat 'Bout Time

Not snowmobiling…

 Nollie and her sled

Not jet skiing...

 Fast Fun!

Rock Climbing!

 Infectious at the RRG

This would consume my days, nights, weekends … my entire life.  If you have been wondering, there is not much potential for outdoor climbing on this front.  So, I ate what was on my plate, and climbed at Planet Rock Climbing Gym!  This gym has very tall route walls (55ft) and has extensive potential to set hard boulder problems.  When I was able I would take trips to the Red River Gorge, throughout high school I called the Gorge my home crag.  The past few years, though, climbing trips have been sparse.  So, with change in mind I have decided to celebrate my tenure.

On Friday September 9, 2011 I will work my last day at Detroit Pump and Manufacturing.  I am leaving the dirty industry to embark on a 2 month climbing trip.  I will be driving my Jeep to some of the best bouldering and climbing destinations in the U.S.  Mostly bouldering ;)

I will be updating my blog along the way with photos, stories and everything in between.  So, check back, comment, and give me feedback if your psyched or dislike any subject.