Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Final Climbing Days in Utah


I’ve had some really good climbing days lately.  Climbing alone in LCC has its benefits.  With the extra time I have had, instead of traveling from area to area, I have been videoing a lot of the climbs I have been getting on.  I edited a video to share, but it turns out Vimeo only allows 500 MB a week and the video is 1.5 G.  Unless I find a way to share the video without paying $60 to subscribe to Vimeo I might just share little bits of climbing.
Anyway, I have been here in Salt Lake City a week longer than expected.  I have been hoping for some breakthrough on Dominatrix, but it hasn’t come.  I have done a lot of reflecting and when I was here last the weather was much colder, about 20 degrees lower.  I have decided that I am wasting energy throwing myself at this climb.  My left hand has bruised fingertips and it’s a reminder that no matter how hard I grab the hold I will pop off.  I need colder temps and a new psyche.
After deciding that I was going to walk away from Dominatrix for now I focused my energy on getting on some new climbs around town.  I have had a blast working my way around the canyon.  Caleb suggested a few classics for me to get on and in the process I added a few that I really enjoyed to climb as well.  Yesterday, in particular, was a really good climbing day.  I went to the Hidden Forest and climbed a few of it’s best!  I flashed a V7 mantle called Whiskey and if it was in Horse Pens it would probably only be V5, Ha!  In the same area I climb Gerbils and Duct Tape, which at one time were both V9 and Duct Taped was supposedly closer to a 10.  I’m not sure what they are now, but I thought Gerbils was more difficult out of the two, and that Duct Tape was an easy, one move, V8.  Both V8s sounds good to me.  With only an hour of daylight left I drove up canyon to White Pine and got on Citizen Dildo V9, which, if compared to Euro, would only be a V7.  I dispatch CD in only 3 tries and repeated it twice for video.  
 Whiskey
 Gerbils
 Duct Tape
Citizen Dildo
I apologize this post is very to the point, but I have a few things to do before I leave for Colorado tomorrow, the biggest thing being rotating my tires.

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